Like many of the best moments, there are no photos.
No memory stick of memories,
just memories, sticking in my memory.
Illustrative images, unlike experiences, can be borrowed.
There are things that inspire us, motivate us, permeate our
thoughts and infuse our dreams.
We can pontificate ad infinitum the deep psychological
reasons behind what drives desire.
Yet, the answer is often remarkably simple.
Awesomeness.
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| Sorcery: the line between light and dark. Photo: ClimbZA |
Within the climbing realm, Boven holds such status. Over
three years ago, an internal cartilage incident circumcised that trip. So I
have felt a long term credit for more. In particular, I wanted another shot at Sorcery. It was a contorted effort at
the crux of this route that imploded my knee in 2012. So like a moth to the flicker,
I returned. Hopefully with enough sense not to get burnt, again.
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| The Attraction |
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| Sussing it out in 2012. Photo: Warren Gans |
While we may develop our minds, and believe ourselves
supremely intellectual, we are often akin to bugs around a porch light. Drawn
by primal urges, undermining conscience control, reined in by hedonism and the
magnetism of pleasure. And I am not just talking about pretty girls. (Or boys,
if you are a girl, or a guy who likes guys. Damn, sexuality correctness is
tricky!)
Attraction does not to be articulated or defended:
awesomeness has a gravity. Resisting the pull is invariably harder than letting
yourself fall right in. Yet, as climbers, once there, we try our best not to
fall any more. Otherwise, you may be left with unfinished business. In our
world of ever more instant gratification, this forces some delay, and I had been
waiting a pretty long time. To climb the route, of course.
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| Simplicity. Green, orange. Chalk, cams. |
Which brings me back to the proud arête by the waterfall.
King Lines are not absolute. The most revered Indian Creek splitter will not
excite a tape glove virgin. No, it is personal, and while certain features generally
elevate a route’s status, it is ultimately what stirs something inside you.
That particular vertical journey that stokes and fuels. It is not about being universally
awesome, but that which you find awesome. For me: the long edge of the ACRA
wall, with great moves, thundering water, committing sequences, dominant
prominence and no bolts.
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| Alex Honnold on the lower sections of Sorcery. Photo: Gutav Janse van Rensburg. Credit: Africa Fusion (http://www.africafusion.co.za/) |
The rock is just a dancefloor, and what we really seek is a
King Experience. These can crop up anywhere, but the ones that top the
clambering charts often happen in conjunction with our favourite routes.
My buddy Tim Dunnett held the ropes. As the water flowed
downward, I made a fluid rise to the finishing hold. A sensory concoction:
absorbing the beauty of the space while focusing on each and every movement. Clicking
biners and chirping birds. No crowds, no one snapping away. Just my good friend
helping me to complete a story I started over a thousand days prior. As with
other moments of this ilk, it culminated mostly in a quiet, satisfactory
welling from within. Acknowledging how fortunate we are play in these sacred
mini-worlds and the fantastic people who party with us.
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| Steve Bretherick on Satan's Temple, which climbs the face to the right of Sorcery. Photo: Dirk Smith (http://www.dirksmith.smugmug.com/). |
Another one for the memory cache, another circle drawn.
This
business was finished, but the next chapter was just starting to take form in
my head.
The memory collector never rests. That’s why we dream. Isn’t
it?
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| Location and setting par excellence. Steve Bretherick soaking it up higher on Satan's Temple. Photo: Dirk Smith. (http://www.dirksmith.smugmug.com/) |
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| The start and end of this story. Photo: Warren Gans. |
Big Thanks to:
Tim, Uwe, Anita, Sarel and all the other
climbers I shared moments with.
Gus and Alex, for once again exuding
awesomeness.
The Tranquilitas team.
Dirk, Warren, Gustav and Robert Breyer for the use
of photos.
Oh, and whoever returned my headlamp after I
‘misplaced’ it.
