The Bek Affair

This article originally appeared in issue 51 of South African Mountain Magazine, with some different photos.

Tick lists. Boy do climbers love them. Whether it be the weekend warrior’s fodder or a catalyst for the Best-Euro-Roadtrip-Ever, tick lists and climbers are pretty tight. Tallying the must-do’s and mega-classics, they get the palms sweating and induce nostalgia in those passing the suggestions on. Although these sacred inventories are most readily associated with the gems in the route department, on a sub-dermal level they apply to areas and crags too. While often not explicitly stated, we have an intuitive knowledge of what makes certain spots cool, and we tend to gravitate to those which have more locational stars. A tiny, crumbling cliff hacked into a quarry alongside a freeway through an industrial zone is unlikely to be popular, unless of course it is in the UK. Here at the Antarctic end of Africa we have a geological heritage that affords us the luxury of being somewhat snobbish about our crags, and this is the story of one such mistress*.

The mistress sometimes plays hard to get...
Pic: Melinda Griffiths

Houdenbek is a farm of Môrester Estate in the Koue Bokkeveld. From Ceres you travel North on the R303, through the Gydo Pass, turn right at Op die Berg and after 15km ‘the Bek’ will be on your left, waiting to tempt you. The owners, Charl and Johalet van der Merwe have been superbly welcoming and encouraging of climbers on their property, with the Fisant and Tarentaal cottages providing a most pleasant base for a getaway.    

Here are the vital statistics:

Sport climbing	√	Bouldering potential	√	Short walk-ins	√
Trad climbing	√	Tar road all the way	√	Great hiking	√
Stunning surrounds	√	Easy access (no permits)	√	Mountain biking trails	√
Further climbing potential	√√	Magnificent accommodation	√	Dam for swimming	√

This pleasure zone does not have enormous assets like those of the Trango Towers, it is not excessively remote like Mt. Asgard, nor is it intimidating like our own Klein Winterhoek amphitheatre. However, one is not always looking for a huge mistress, miles away who is ultimately just going to give you a hard time. 

Exploring what she has to offer

By contrast, the Bek is easy, satisfying and most refreshing – qualities that seem well suited for an affair, or so I am told. The Bek is also really beautiful, but not in an imposing way like Ama Dablam or a catwalk model - which just seem out of most of our leagues. No, the Bek is inviting and subtle, and after the first date, a jumble of rocks from afar reveals tranquil riverine pools, intriguing gulleys and delectable 15-45m high cliff faces. While the rock quality is not always on par with Tafelberg or Krakadouw (few places in our galaxy are), it is certainly good enough to put a smile on your face.

Climalogical history

The topological evidence indicates that the first climbers ventured out of the farmland and onto the rocky outcrops between 150 and 120 million seconds ago (MSA)**. It is thought that another climbing species, physically strong but never venturing far above the ground, may have frequented the region prior to this. We know their diet typically consisted primarily of boulders, but their presence has not been confirmed in the ascent record. As with other evolutionary events, the first routes appeared near water – in this case a carabiner’s throw from the farm dam. The Warreniferous period was characterised primarily by activity from Russell and Catharina Warren along with Gareth Meder. In an unusual act of developmentary altruism, R. Warren even bolted a line specifically for the endemic Charl Van Der Merwe to open. All these pioneering efforts have names relating to apples, since they were an important food source in the surrounding valley.

Early morning, the sport crag from across the dam. 

Approximately 108 MSA, a tall, skinny creature appeared on the scene and due to the further generosity of R. Warren, first crawled up a few of the remaining bolted lines. While on a perambulation to the Heiveld arch, this lanky critter (who happens to the author of this article) noticed some delectable opportunities for trad climbing. In particular, a striking wall with an arête sticking right out of the centre, which would later become the highly aesthetic Pythagoras Dilemma (22). This marked the start of the Halseocene period, with the initial routes arriving around 102 MSA on a subsequent migration with Douw Steyn and Julia Wakeling. The vertical playground was further expanded later in the same season with Sam Jack, Melinda Griffiths and Rolfe van Breda.  Between 75 and 45 MSA the skinny guy had adaptive issues with one of his clambering appendages and coincidently the proliferation of trad routes remained dormant until 30 MSA. During this hiatus, the next wave of sport climbing (the Millbredourens period) got underway around 21 MSA with Scott Miller, Rolfe Van Breda and Tony Lourens filling the dam crag with more bolts.

Pythagoras Dilemma (22) - where it all started.
Pic: Douw Steyn

Most recently, at only 5 MSA, a herd 10 strong invaded the farm and were most impressed, all vowing to return.  Based on this it seems fairly certain that further route development will continue into the next climalogical epoch, as rumours of this fertile haven spread. In a fitting tribute to the excellence of the place, regular Bekkonites R. van Breda and M. Griffiths got engaged at the farm.  

The Virtual Tour      

At the time of scribbling, the sport crag had 21 routes (from grade 15 to 24) and some projects. Receiving morning shade, it is ideal for the hot summers, and a more convenient crag is tricky to find. By contrast the established trad crags all receive sun until mid-afternoon, making them more suitable for the cooler months. 

On the trail that leads from the dam to the Heiveld arch (which is well worth the walk), the first crag on your left is the Boardroom. This takes its name from the improbable natural shelter that Charl mused was where the bushmen could have held their indabas. Imagine a giant stone Rubik’s cube, where a block from a bottom corner is slid out just enough to form a protected room inside the boulder. While most of the lines here are relatively easy, there is also the seductive Ripple Effect (24); with its red curves leading up to a climactic finish requiring unusual body positions.

Riding the Ripple Effect.
Pic: Melinda Griffiths

A little further on, now taking one of the mountain bike trails, you pass underneath Môrester Square, which is surprisingly geometric for something not designed by an architect. At 45m in height (and width), this is a good place for those with tantric tendencies. This cliff band terminates in the Stolen Salami sector, which was christened after we learnt what happens when tasty meat products and a farm dog are both left unattended. The obvious feature here is the overhanging arête taken by Big Green Coconuts (23). A combination of nuts are recommended: tiny metal ones and large anatomical ones. Alternatively, if you dig crack, then Boa Lime (20) should get you high.

Bring a large pair for Big Green Coconuts (23).
Pic: Douw Steyn

Back on the main arch trail, and only 30 minutes stroll from the dam, is a valley-let littered with rock formations including the Choice crag. This was not inspired by the brand of Government issue condoms, although some of the routes are indeed quite orgasmic. With the prime lines, flat lunch spot and great views – it was quite simply the choice place to go. Both the climbing style and the grades are varied, and although the bottom 2m of rock is sometimes a bit sub-optimal, just think of it as foreplay. On our maiden voyage, Julia proclaimed that “My Jugs are Bigger than your Jugs”. The name stuck, and indeed the inaugural trad route at the Bek was covered in holds so big that you would need several more hands to fondle them adequately enough. By contrast, only 10m away and 10 grades harder is the seemingly blank face of Angular Momentum (24). If you are not in for bold, thin and technical, then the neighbouring Bokkeveld Boogie (22) is the ticket, with everything after the first move going at about grade 19. For the good olde full Monty, and more fun that should probably be legal, head to The Joy Axis (17).

Douw prepearing his next dance move on Bokkeveld Boogie (22)

In conclusion, a trip to the Bek is not epic. If you want missioning and suffering, then go elsewhere. It is not the next Ceuse of sport climbing, nor an Arapiles of trad. However, should you be in the mood for a good time, exploration and comfort, where you can relax around a fire with mates and cold beer after a satisfying day, then you would need to try pretty hard to fail here. If you are geographically distant to the Bek then may I suggest you find your own mistress, and once you start feeling guilty about the amount of fun you are having, you could always write about her in a magazine so that others may come and share in the fruits of pleasure, so to speak.

Another choice route at the choive crag: Axes of Weevil (17)
Pic: Tony Lourens

Richard’s Six-pack of Satisfaction***

Rhombus Romp (15)

The Joy Axis (17)

Flying Saucer (18)

Read the Lightening (19)

Bokkeveld Boogie (22)

Ripple Effect (24)

* : Believe it or not, in the interests of gender equality, I even consulted with a member of the Women and Gender Studies Department at the University of the Western Cape, who did not find it offensive for me to use it in this metaphorical context. However, should it bother you, then please view it in the notional sense as an entity with which you would like to have an affair. If the association of sexual and climbing activities does not resonate with you, then perhaps you are selling yourself short in one or both of these fields.

** This is based on a reading time approximated to early November 2014. A correction of approximately 2.6 MSA can be applied for each month thereafter.

*** Definitely subjective, probably biased, but certainly not kak.