So it took longer than expected.
"No, there is just one more left then I am done" - yeah right. But now I mean it. Mostly.
I was living in Tamboerskloof and it was summer. For the first time ever I had a 'real' job. That meant I was another nine-to-fiver. Almost. I had this itch for opening new climbing routes. Lion's Head offered an opportunity to do this before and after work - hence the Summer Project idea was born. It was 2010.
Over a year later, I am pleased to report I have finished. Well except for that line done in the hidden spot, but that is nails hard so it will have to wait till I have had more Pronutro. I bought two large boxes the other day. I may even consider training. I digress.
Lion's Head has a few good things going for it. Access is quick and easy, it is often protected from the weather, good views, choice of sun or shade, drunk Norwegian exchange students at full moon. However one needs to be discerning. To call a garden tool a garden tool, there is a lot of crap, lichen plastered choss up there. Beware. Crystals on the granite snap, itchy vertical flora gets in your eyes and prime low-lifes throw bottles from the top. Classic Ying and Yan.
David Mercer must be commended for bringing out a guide book. It made it easy for me to see where the gaps were. Serious though, kudos - good work. After walking, scrambling and generally surveying almost the entire hill, I decided there were two areas worth putting effort into (i.e sanity breaks at silly hours of day and night on week days). And this is how it came that my alarm would go off at 4:30am, I would be walking up at 5am, swinging on a rope by 5:30am and generally having quite a blast before most people had opened the fridge to find they had run out of milk. Run down at 7:45, home, shower and get to work just on time (well, within one standard deviation).
It was a bit like dating. First check out all the options, and pick the one that looks the best from far away. I learned it is best to do this in the flesh, not from looking at pictures someone else took. Get a little closer and see if your suspicions are correct. Sometimes you need to do a quick sidestep, or one near by would suddenly have more appeal. Choices. Invest a bit of time, getting a real good look from top to toe. Next, confident in your choice, get to know her better. Feel her up a bit, especially the jugs and other nice hand holds. At this stage (with your abseil rope as wingman) your commitment is low, and you can always bail without to much lose of face. Sooner or later though, you will have to make a call, and if it's a winner you need to grab your protection, get your equipment in there and go for the send. Very satisfying.
Unlike dating, a route won't clean itself, unfortunately. But you do get to decide on the name, and demonstrating your moves or describing what you did with your nuts isn't frowned upon, by other climbers at least.
I was also experimenting in rope-soloing (no analogies here please), specifically how far one can push the boat out. The manufacturers warning clearly says you 'must NEVER fall while rope soloing'. Ooops. Out of control onto a flared cam nogal. At least it was a shiny new cam and not some manky booty - which I have my share of. What a rush!! I briefly pulled the boat back, and tied a back-up knot next time. So it was fitting that I sent the last route on my summer project list by rope-soloing it, placing all the gear, at sunset: Pride Breaker (25). Maybe its only 24, but who likes a sandbagger? On that note, bring tape and a knee pad.
In total, 16 new routes grade 15-26. Details on the ClimbZA wiki will soon be up to date. The ones on the granite are more for completion and 3 come with R-ratings. Ye olde sandstone ones however, offer good single pitch climbing and are some of the better routes on the hill, in my completely unbiased opinion :).
Happy cranking!
Now if I can just get a bit stronger, then maybe the Lightening project will go.
"No, there is just one more left then I am done" - yeah right. But now I mean it. Mostly.
Granite and sandstone, right in the city. Cape Town rocks.
I was living in Tamboerskloof and it was summer. For the first time ever I had a 'real' job. That meant I was another nine-to-fiver. Almost. I had this itch for opening new climbing routes. Lion's Head offered an opportunity to do this before and after work - hence the Summer Project idea was born. It was 2010.
Over a year later, I am pleased to report I have finished. Well except for that line done in the hidden spot, but that is nails hard so it will have to wait till I have had more Pronutro. I bought two large boxes the other day. I may even consider training. I digress.
Lion's Head has a few good things going for it. Access is quick and easy, it is often protected from the weather, good views, choice of sun or shade, drunk Norwegian exchange students at full moon. However one needs to be discerning. To call a garden tool a garden tool, there is a lot of crap, lichen plastered choss up there. Beware. Crystals on the granite snap, itchy vertical flora gets in your eyes and prime low-lifes throw bottles from the top. Classic Ying and Yan.
David Mercer must be commended for bringing out a guide book. It made it easy for me to see where the gaps were. Serious though, kudos - good work. After walking, scrambling and generally surveying almost the entire hill, I decided there were two areas worth putting effort into (i.e sanity breaks at silly hours of day and night on week days). And this is how it came that my alarm would go off at 4:30am, I would be walking up at 5am, swinging on a rope by 5:30am and generally having quite a blast before most people had opened the fridge to find they had run out of milk. Run down at 7:45, home, shower and get to work just on time (well, within one standard deviation).
Pride Breaker - after a failed courting attempt.
It was a bit like dating. First check out all the options, and pick the one that looks the best from far away. I learned it is best to do this in the flesh, not from looking at pictures someone else took. Get a little closer and see if your suspicions are correct. Sometimes you need to do a quick sidestep, or one near by would suddenly have more appeal. Choices. Invest a bit of time, getting a real good look from top to toe. Next, confident in your choice, get to know her better. Feel her up a bit, especially the jugs and other nice hand holds. At this stage (with your abseil rope as wingman) your commitment is low, and you can always bail without to much lose of face. Sooner or later though, you will have to make a call, and if it's a winner you need to grab your protection, get your equipment in there and go for the send. Very satisfying.
Unlike dating, a route won't clean itself, unfortunately. But you do get to decide on the name, and demonstrating your moves or describing what you did with your nuts isn't frowned upon, by other climbers at least.
Company on a solo scouting mission.
I was also experimenting in rope-soloing (no analogies here please), specifically how far one can push the boat out. The manufacturers warning clearly says you 'must NEVER fall while rope soloing'. Ooops. Out of control onto a flared cam nogal. At least it was a shiny new cam and not some manky booty - which I have my share of. What a rush!! I briefly pulled the boat back, and tied a back-up knot next time. So it was fitting that I sent the last route on my summer project list by rope-soloing it, placing all the gear, at sunset: Pride Breaker (25). Maybe its only 24, but who likes a sandbagger? On that note, bring tape and a knee pad.
In total, 16 new routes grade 15-26. Details on the ClimbZA wiki will soon be up to date. The ones on the granite are more for completion and 3 come with R-ratings. Ye olde sandstone ones however, offer good single pitch climbing and are some of the better routes on the hill, in my completely unbiased opinion :).
Happy cranking!
Now if I can just get a bit stronger, then maybe the Lightening project will go.
