Rich Climbing: The Circle

Like many of the best moments, there are no photos.

No memory stick of memories,

just memories, sticking in my memory.

Illustrative images, unlike experiences, can be borrowed.

There are things that inspire us, motivate us, permeate our thoughts and infuse our dreams.

We can pontificate ad infinitum the deep psychological reasons behind what drives desire.

Yet, the answer is often remarkably simple.

Awesomeness.

Sorcery: the line between light and dark. Photo: ClimbZA

Within the climbing realm, Boven holds such status. Over three years ago, an internal cartilage incident circumcised that trip. So I have felt a long term credit for more. In particular, I wanted another shot at Sorcery. It was a contorted effort at the crux of this route that imploded my knee in 2012. So like a moth to the flicker, I returned. Hopefully with enough sense not to get burnt, again.

The Attraction

Sussing it out in 2012. Photo: Warren Gans

While we may develop our minds, and believe ourselves supremely intellectual, we are often akin to bugs around a porch light. Drawn by primal urges, undermining conscience control, reined in by hedonism and the magnetism of pleasure. And I am not just talking about pretty girls. (Or boys, if you are a girl, or a guy who likes guys. Damn, sexuality correctness is tricky!)

Attraction does not to be articulated or defended: awesomeness has a gravity. Resisting the pull is invariably harder than letting yourself fall right in. Yet, as climbers, once there, we try our best not to fall any more. Otherwise, you may be left with unfinished business. In our world of ever more instant gratification, this forces some delay, and I had been waiting a pretty long time. To climb the route, of course.

Simplicity. Green, orange. Chalk, cams.

Which brings me back to the proud arête by the waterfall. King Lines are not absolute. The most revered Indian Creek splitter will not excite a tape glove virgin. No, it is personal, and while certain features generally elevate a route’s status, it is ultimately what stirs something inside you. That particular vertical journey that stokes and fuels. It is not about being universally awesome, but that which you find awesome. For me: the long edge of the ACRA wall, with great moves, thundering water, committing sequences, dominant prominence and no bolts.

Alex Honnold on the lower sections of Sorcery.
Photo: Gutav Janse van Rensburg. Credit: Africa Fusion (http://www.africafusion.co.za/)

The rock is just a dancefloor, and what we really seek is a King Experience. These can crop up anywhere, but the ones that top the clambering charts often happen in conjunction with our favourite routes.

My buddy Tim Dunnett held the ropes. As the water flowed downward, I made a fluid rise to the finishing hold. A sensory concoction: absorbing the beauty of the space while focusing on each and every movement. Clicking biners and chirping birds. No crowds, no one snapping away. Just my good friend helping me to complete a story I started over a thousand days prior. As with other moments of this ilk, it culminated mostly in a quiet, satisfactory welling from within. Acknowledging how fortunate we are play in these sacred mini-worlds and the fantastic people who party with us.

Steve Bretherick on Satan's Temple, which climbs the face to the right of Sorcery.
Photo: Dirk Smith (http://www.dirksmith.smugmug.com/).

Another one for the memory cache, another circle drawn.

This business was finished, but the next chapter was just starting to take form in my head.

The memory collector never rests. That’s why we dream. Isn’t it?

Location and setting par excellence. Steve Bretherick soaking it up higher on Satan's Temple. Photo: Dirk Smith. (http://www.dirksmith.smugmug.com/)